Planting cherries, as a rule, is carried out in October. However, when choosing a time frame, it is better to focus on the climate zone and weather, landing is carried out at temperatures up to + 13 ° C.
Before this, potash or phosphorus fertilizers are added. For winter, small seedlings are covered with special felt material to protect them from mice.
Features of growing cherries
It is not difficult to plant cherries, but there are features on which both fruiting and optimal growth and development depend:
- seedlings are bought in special nurseries, preferably three years old (low trees 70-90 cm);
- choose trees with a well-formed root system, evenly colored bark of brown color;
- a place for planting is selected protected from groundwater and drafts.
Dates and varieties for different regions of Russia
In central Russia and the Moscow region, cherries are planted after the end of leaf fall and until mid-October. In the harsh and cold climates of the Urals and Siberia, planting is carried out in late spring, so the cuttings will have enough time to adapt to the autumn colds in order to grow strong and germinate. The best of the month are May and the end of April.
In the southern regions, such as the Krasnodar Territory, Rostov Region, Volgograd, a tree is planted from October to the end of November.
For cold regions, the most frost-resistant seedlings are chosen, such as: Zhelannaya, Altai early 2, Kristina. For the Moscow Region, those who tolerate frost and pest attacks, take root well Apukhtinskaya, Turgenevka, Lyubskaya.
The best varieties for Russia:
- Morozovka is a sweet variety that ripens in June.
- Turgenevka - frost-resistant, great for harvesting for the winter.
- Shpanka is disease-resistant, winter-hardy, fruits are not stored for a long time.
- Zhukovskaya - ripens late and has large fruits.
- The meeting is frost-resistant.
- Generous - sour fruits, gives a great harvest.
- Lyubskaya - does not tolerate cold, but gives a lot of fruit.
Features and disadvantages of autumn planting
Advantages of planting cherries in autumn:
- A variety of planting material. In all autumn nurseries, a large selection of seedlings with open roots.
- Good survival rate. In autumn, the optimum temperature for planting is set, since at this time the cherry actively strengthens the roots.
- Save time in spring. You can take care of other cultures.
- Easy care. Rains will provide the seedling with the necessary moisture.
Of the disadvantages it is worth noting:
- A sharp decrease in temperature, as a rule, negatively affects the root system, so with early frosts, the seedling can die.
- In autumn, rodents are most active, so you have to protect the tree with special covering material.
If the landing dates are missed, then do the following:
- in the garden plot they dig a long hole under the roots;
- the processes are placed in a trench and fixed at an acute angle;
- the root system is covered with earth with a layer of 10 cm;
- watered with two buckets of water and covered with spruce branches from pests.
The snow layer on the trunk should be no more than 30 cm, otherwise the roots will begin to chant.
Choosing a place to land
Cherry loves the sun, so they plant it in well-lit places. Particularly important is the sunlight on the grafted processes. Ideally, if the cherry remains under the rays from early morning until evening. The landing site must be protected from strong drafts and winds, since the plant is deformed and broken from them. If there is no such closed area, then build protection from the winds.
They do not choose places near branchy trees and in lowlands.
A plant is planted only once, since it does not tolerate the transplant to a new place.
Groundwater has a bad effect on cherry growth; they must pass at a depth of one and a half to two meters.
When planting next to fruit bushes, the tree does not develop well, as the branches of plants intertwine and gradually die off. Cherry coexists perfectly in the garden area next to the apple tree, plum, grapes and gooseberries. Unwanted neighbors are: peach, apricot, walnut, blackcurrant.
The soil
Land for the tree must be fertile, sandy or loamy. The reaction is necessarily neutral or slightly alkaline. The acidity of the earth is an important feature that is paid attention to before planting, therefore, if it is different on the site, then it is changed with special components. Acidic soil is alkalized with chalk or limestone. Clay soil is also avoided; otherwise, sand is added to it.
Preparing and planting seedlings
Prerequisites before planting a seedling:
- Inspect the shoot for damage, cuts and breaks in the roots and stem. The leaves are removed, due to which the water evaporates.
- Dry roots are dipped in water for half a day to the root neck.
- Place the root system in a heteroausin solution.
Landing instruction
Prepare the soil in advance: pour lime and dig the ground. Fertilizers are applied (per 1 sq.m: manure - 10 kg, superphosphate - 60 g, potassium chloride - 30 g). In no case are limestone and organic used simultaneously.
Step-by-step instructions for disembarkation:
- Set a stake of about 2 meters on the north side, dug under a seedling of a pit.
- Form a hill from fertile soil.
- Distribute the roots on the surface of the earth.
- They fall asleep and compact the soil near the trunk, making sure that the root neck is 4 cm above the surface of the soil.
- Watered with 3 buckets of water.
Outdoor Care
For proper growth, development and fruiting, cherries are looked after.
Features of watering
A shaft of earth is poured around the trunk about 25 cm onto the seedling, and about 2 buckets are slowly poured into this pit. After absorbing moisture, mulch the earth at the tree trunk. After the cherry is watered as needed.
Fertilizers
So that the cherry grows well in the open ground, fertilizers are applied. They don’t do this for the first two years. And from the third year to the first flowering, nitrogen-containing fertilizing is introduced. The best option is to fertilize the water. As soon as the cherry blossoms, they feed with humus, compost. In the summer they use any organic matter. In autumn, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, for example, potassium monophosphate, are suitable.
Pruning
Cut the seedling immediately after planting. From the ground to the first branch should remain 50 cm of the bare trunk, all the rest - cut off. Only 6 strong branches are left at an acute angle to the cherry trunk - this is the main crown of the plant. These branches are shortened by about 7 centimeters. The rest are cut to zero, to the hemp on the trunk, the slices are greased with garden var.
The formation of the crown is as follows:
- Begin in early spring, pruning a year-old shoot 80 cm in height. This will be the first level of branches.
- Next year, the central conductor is cut from the highest branch to the first level by 80 cm. This will be the second tier with three branches along the circumference of the tree.
- Once the crown is formed, the cherry is limited in height to 2.5 meters. Frequent thinning branches.
Breeding
Cherenkov method:
- About a two-year-old shoot near the strong roots is designated near the mother tree.
- Close to the root system, the stalk is not taken, otherwise the roots of the mother tree will be damaged. After chopping off the root connecting the shoot and the uterine tree. In spring, this process is transplanted to a new place.
Bone propagation method:
- Fresh bones are dried and placed in water for several hours. Seeds are suitable for planting, which have gone to the bottom, and the floated bones are removed.
- The first is placed in a container with sand and water and left in a dry place until warm weather, moisturize and weed as necessary.
- They are slightly fed with fertilizers (superphosphate, potassium chloride).
- For the winter, seedlings are covered with foil and left in the cellar or any other dry place.
Possible problems
Novice gardeners often make mistakes that harm the cherry and affect its growth and yield. The main disadvantages:
- The landing pit is not prepared in advance, so the root neck goes deep underground, which affects the growth of the tree.
- They make a large amount of fertilizer, which affects the root system badly.
- Buy a seedling older than three years, because of this, the cherry adapts longer in a new place.
- A tree is not planted on time, which becomes a common cause of death.
- Get a seedling from hands, but not in nurseries where quality is guaranteed.
Diseases, pests
Pest / disease | Problem | Elimination method |
Kleasterosporiosis | Numerous holes and brown spotting round shape on the leaves. | Sick leaves and infected parts of the cherry are removed. After using a solution of copper oxychloride or cupritox. |
Coccomycosis | Small bright red and pale spots on the leaves, pink spores appear below. After the leaves turn yellow and fall off. | The leaves are destroyed, the soil at the trunk is dug up. The tree is treated with copper chloride. |
Moniliosis | A stain appears on almost every fruit, which eventually fills it whole. A tree loses its entire crop. | The affected parts of the cherry are collected and removed. After using Bordeaux liquid. |
Rust | The leaves become rusty and fall off. | Affected parts of the tree are collected and burned away. |
Scab | Huge dark spots appear on the inside of the leaf, then they turn brown and dry. | The leaves are burned, after spraying the tree with Kuprozan. |
Cherry sawflies | Destroy all the leaves to the veins. | Trichogamma (natural saw-ovoid enemies) is released, treated with Pyrithone. |
Cherry Weevil | Green beetle, which eats leaves, buds of cherry. | Use Actelik and Rovikurt. |
Aphid | Sucks juice from the tissues of the tree. Leaves are wrapped in a straw. | Spray with chemicals such as Rovikurt or tincture of tobacco with the addition of soap. |
Plum moth | Butterfly lays eggs in green fruits. The berries go bad. | It is treated with benzophosphate and carbophosphate. |
Winter protection
In winter, protect the tree from rodents and colds. The trunk is wrapped with felt material. By spring, additionally from mice, they tree the tree with spruce branches.
In a snowy winter, snow is dug in a timely manner to the hole for heat. In early spring, all the protection is removed and the soil is loosened.