Echeveria: Home Care Tips

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Echeveria is a group of perennial herbaceous succulents from the family Crassulaceae. There are more than 170 species in the genus. Can be found in Mexico, USA, South America.

Description of echeveria

The leaves are compacted, fleshy, juicy, collected in rosettes 3-40 cm. They are flat, cylindrical, oval with pointed ends. Coloring is green, red, violet-pink. Plates are pubescent or with a wax coating. In some varieties, the stem is absent, in others it is elongated.

The flowers are small, five-membered, in the shape of a bell with juicy petals and sepals. There are various shades: yellow, reddish-brown, fiery orange. Collected in an upright inflorescence located on pedicels up to 50 cm in height. At their end, the formation of the baby begins. The root system is superficial, filiform. Some species give creeping shoots.

Echeveria is similar to young, but do not confuse them. The first plant does not tolerate low temperature, especially frost. In our strip, it is grown exclusively as a room flower. Youngsters, on the other hand, perfectly await the winter in the open air, even without shelter.

Types of Echeveria

Varieties for home growing:

VarietyStems / SocketsLeavesFlowers / flowering
AgaveShortened.

Dense and round.

At the base widened, narrowed in the middle. Soft emerald hue. The pointed ends are yellowish-green with a gray-blue waxy coating.Yellow or reddish bell-shaped.

Spring Summer.

White hairShortened.

Up to 15 cm.

Lanceolate, oblong. The outer side is flat, the inner is convex. Emerald color with a dark frame and with whitish villi.Red-brown on elongated pedicels.

Spring.

BrilliantThickened.

From the main outlet shoots of the 2nd order come out.

Oval-oblong with an islet ending. Green color and with a touch on the perimeter.Scarlet, 1-2 cm in diameter.

The end of winter is the beginning of spring.

Humpalaceae MetallicaUnbranched, lignified.

With 15-20 leaves.

Lanceolate, with a pointed end. The outer region is concave, with the inner convex. The edges are wavy. Hue from gray-blue-green to red-gray with a light frame.Reddish-yellow bells, up to 2 cm in diameter.

The last month of summer.

DerenbergCondensed, creeping.

The correct form.

Shovel, green with a pinkish or dark border.Reddish-yellow bells on pedicels.

From April to June.

GracefulUnderdeveloped.

Dense.

Rounded, with a pointed end, with a light green or with a grayish-blue coating.Pink, with a yellowish tip on branched peduncles.

May.

CushionedShortened, grassy.

Loose.

Rounded, fleshy. Green with silvery villi, spines at the ends.Downy, reddish yellow, 1-2 cm in diameter.

The first half of March.

PicocaShort, straight.

Friable.

Shovel-shaped, with an islet end, gray-blue-green.Red, located on drooping pedicels.

May June.

ShavianaGrassy, ​​underdeveloped.

Sealed, regular shape.

Flat, oval, with a pointed end.Pink, located on straight, branched pedicels.

June.

BristlyVirtually absent.

Sealed.

Lanceolate, fleshy. Evenly painted in a bright green tone. The plate has a silver-colored bristle.Small, up to 1 cm. Collected in inflorescences 30-40 cm.

Early summer.

DesmetLong, drooping.

Compact, up to 10 cm.

Small in size, bluish.Yellow on the side arrows.

Summer.

LauShort or absent.

Juicy.

Fleshy, oval, bluish-white.Dark pink, collected in inflorescences.

April May.

Black PrinceVirtually invisible.

Juicy, dense.

Dark green and long with a pointed end.Red, collected in a racemose.

End of summer.

The Pearl of NurembergErect, short.

Dense, large 10-20 cm.

Wide and juicy, with a pinkish-gray bloom.Muted scarlet.

Summer.

MirandaAre absent.

Small, neat, in shape resembling a lotus.

Blue, purple, scarlet, silver, yellow, pink.Warm pinkish.

Spring and summer.

Care for echeveria at home

Echeveria is an unpretentious plant, perfectly taking root in the apartment. Seasonal flower care at home:

ParameterSpring SummerAutumn winter
Temperature+ 22 ... +27 ° С.At rest - + 10 ... +15 ° С. When flowering - not lower than +18 ° C.
HumidityNeed dry air, do not spray.
WateringAs the top layer dries up.Once a month. With winter rest - only with wrinkling of leaves.
LightingDirect ultraviolet rays.
Top dressingOnce a month.Not needed.

Landing

Some gardeners recommend immediately replanting a plant from a shipping container, as the soil in it is intended for the development of echeveria. Others believe that if the flower is a month in such a land, nothing bad will happen to it. On the contrary, succulents will undergo acclimatization, get used to new conditions. To do this, put it in a shaded place for easy drying, before the appearance of aerial roots.

The substrate is made of the following components in fractions of 3: 1: 1: 0.5:

  • garden land;
  • pebbles;
  • peat;
  • charcoal.

You can buy soil for cacti and succulents, mix it with small stones 4 to 1. After preparing the substrate, it is recommended to test it for suitability: compress a moist earth in a fist, after it has been unclenched, it should crumble.

The pot is needed 1-1.5 cm more than the previous one. The succulent has a superficial root system, so a wide but shallow capacity is needed, with holes for drainage.

When planting material is small, it is recommended that it be planted in glasses for growing. Once the bushes are strong, they can be moved to permanent pots. Large containers are used to place several instances of echeveria at once. The bushes should be watered carefully so that fluid stagnation does not occur.

Step-by-step landing:

  • Lay out a drainage layer of 2 cm.
  • Pour a small amount of substrate, put a flower in it.
  • Add soil to the root of the neck.

In pure gravel:

  • 1/3 of the pot fill with stones.
  • Put a bush in it.
  • Cover the remaining space with the remains of gravel.

The larger the plant, the larger the stones should be.

Young specimens need to be transplanted once a year. Adults - as necessary, with the growth of roots or damage to diseases, pests.

Breeding

Echeveria bred:

  • leafy cuttings;
  • apical and basal shoots;
  • rarely seeded, because it is a laborious process.

The first method of reproduction is as follows:

  • Separate the formed lower leaves. Dry for 2 hours.
  • Press into the ground at a slight slope.
  • Spray, cover with polyethylene.
  • Leave at about +25 ° C. Clean the shelter daily, moisten the sprouts.
  • After 2-3 weeks, young outlets will grow. When the planting leaf dries, transplant the shoots.

Planting basal or apical shoots:

  • Cut off the shoots, remove 3-4 lower leaves, leave in a dark place for several hours.
  • Pour the substrate into the pot, stick the sockets in it, moisten.
  • Keep at + 22 ... +24 ° C, water every day.
  • After 2-3 months, they can be transplanted into separate containers. If the plant develops slowly, it is better to postpone the movement until spring.

Seed Growing:

  • In February-March, evenly distribute on the surface.
  • Moisten, cover with glass.
  • Keep at + 20 ... +25 ° C, water and ventilate.
  • After 2-3 months, transplant the shoots into small containers. When the bushes reach 3 cm, move them into permanent pots.

Problems in growing echeveria

With errors in care, Echeveria loses its decorative effect or dies. Causes of problems and solutions:

SymptomsCausesTreatment
Grayish spots, a violation of the waxy coating.
  • rough treatment;
  • water on the foliage.
  • do not touch the leaves so as not to damage the layer of wax;
  • Water with care so that the liquid does not flood the sockets.
The bush is fragile, acquire a gray or black shade.Excess moisture and cold.
  • reduce watering;
  • rearrange in a warm room + 25 ... +28 ° C.
The socket has become loose and elongated. The foliage has faded.Lack of light.Gradually add the degree of illumination. If done abruptly, the bush will experience stress and become ill.
The flower grows slowly, the leaves are smaller.
  • little water;
  • poor soil, not enough fertilizer.
  • increase the amount of watering, but do not forget that excess moisture is also harmful, as well as drying the soil;
  • transplant into a nutrient substrate, timely feed.
Plates and sockets are wrinkled, dry.The soil is not moistened in the heat.
  • rearrange the pot in a cool place;
  • to water.

Diseases and pests of Echeveria

Echeveria is affected by diseases and insects.

Disease / pestSymptomsWays to get rid
MealybugThe presence of off-white fluff, similar to cotton wool, on the stem and outlets. With a severe defeat, the greens will wither and fall.
  • Isolate the bush from the rest of the plants.
  • Collect insects by hand.
  • Wipe the flower with a soap-alcohol solution (15 g of fine chips of laundry soap per 20 ml of ethyl alcohol).
  • In case of minor damage, prepare an infusion: pour 50 g of garlic arrows into 1 liter of boiling water. Leave for a day. Spray with a means of echeveria, substrate, pot. Cover tightly with a plastic bag and leave for 2 days. To process 3-4 times, with an interval of 5-7 days.
  • Use purchased insecticide preparations: Actellik, Actara, etc. Follow the annotations clearly. It is recommended to alternate poisons so that the insect does not develop immunity to them.
Root wormInsects suck the juice from the roots. The greens turn pale, turn yellow, wither. A grayish-white coating resembling wax is visible along the edge of the pot. You can notice pests during transplantation.
  • Move to new soil, discard old. Wash and pre-boil the pot. Sterilize the new soil, rinse the roots with boiling water.
  • To treat with insecticides: Fitoverm, Confidor and others.
  • Follow the watering schedule. Once every 4 weeks add water to the water at a concentration of ½ (Mospilan, Regent and others) in water.
Gall nematodesThese are small worms sucking juice from rhizomes. Because of this, swellings are visible on it, in which the pest conducts its vital activity. With severe damage, the root system dies, the bush dies.
Root rotRoots, stems, leaves are loose, soft, black. The green grows smaller, yellow, falls. As a result, the bush dies.
  • With a severe defeat, the plant must be destroyed.
  • With a low spread of the disease, an urgent transplant will help. Pre-soak the roots in Bordeaux liquid, HOMA and other solutions of fungicide. Sterilize the pot and soil before planting.
  • Cut off the affected areas, treat the damage with charcoal or sulfur. Dry the bush for several hours and plant again.
  • After getting rid of the disease, continue treatment with 0.5% fungicide for a month.

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Watch the video: Indoor Succulent Care: 5 Tips for keeping your indoor succulents healthy (May 2024).