AMARYLLIS HOME CARE, PHOTO, PLANTING, FLOWERING FLOWER IN A POT

Send

Plant photo

Amaryllis (Amaryllis) - a perennial monocotyledonous plant of the amaryllis family with basal elongated leaves 60 cm in size, arranged in two rows. Blossoms in very large umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 6-12 flowers of various colors from white to deep red.

The homeland of amaryllis - the forests of the Republic of South Africa, also grow in Australia. This is a bulbous, flowering plant before the development of leaves, with an average pace of development. With proper care, the flower bulb can last about 20 years.

Also be sure to look at the wallot plant.

	Growth rate is medium.
	It begins to bloom in January. Blooms 1 month.
	The plant requires special attention when growing.
	It is a perennial plant. 3-5 years in one pot.

Features of growing at home. Briefly

Photo of amaryllis in a pot

Amaryllis at home is a rather capricious flower, but it will feel comfortable while observing the following maintenance rules:

Temperature mode	During the period of active growth - not higher than 23 degrees, during rest - about 10.
Air humidity	Average, no more than 50%.
Lighting	Long bright lighting, diffused sunlight, southern windows.
Watering	Afraid of overflow, watering once or twice a week is sufficient, with the exception of the rest period.
Priming	A fertile, saturated and moisture-permeable composition with a drainage layer of 3-4 cm is required.
Fertilizer and fertilizer	About once a month with liquid fertilizers, with the exception of the resting phase.
Amaryllis transplant	It is carried out at the end of the period of rest of the plant every 4-5 years.
Breeding	It is possible both with seeds and with the help of bulbs.
Growing Features	The cycle of rest of the flower falls at the end of spring - the beginning of summer. In autumn and winter, the plant is sorely lacking light in the apartment; additional illumination is required. The flower bulb is poisonous, all work should be carried out with gloves.

Amaryllis: home care. In detail

Amaryllis planting

Before planting in a flowerpot, the bulb is freed from decayed areas, disinfected in a weak solution of manganese, and if there were cuts, they are sprinkled with crushed coal. In prepared soil the onion is deepened so that one third or even half of it remains above the soil surface. This measure will avoid the death of the bulbs and flower arrows. Watering only a planted plant is best through a pan.

When planting in open ground, a place is selected where the soil is rich in humus. Amaryllis, planted closer to summer, will gain strength for flowering and will increase a greater number of children than its potted counterpart.

Bloom

Very often, the amaryllis plant at home is confused with a hippeastrum flower. The main differences of amaryllis, according to which it can be easily recognized:

flower petals are narrower and not terry;
the number of flowers on each of the peduncles is from 6 to 12, while hippeastrums have no more than 6;
a small onion is a maximum of 6 cm in diameter, babies appear between its scales;
the flower stalk is dense but not hollow.

As a rule, the flowering of amaryllis occurs in the last days of summer or early autumn. These are beautiful inflorescences of white, as well as all shades of pink and red, often two-tone with stripes. The plant blooms in a leafless state for about 8 weeks. Old bulbs older than 15 years old will not bloom.

Temperature mode

Home Amaryllis does not tolerate sudden temperature extremes. The optimal climate for the flower in the summer is 18-22 degrees with moderate humidity. During dormancy, the temperature of the plant is reduced to 8-10 degrees.

Spraying

In room conditions with normal humidity, the plant does not need regular spraying. This measure is only necessary if the room has rather dry air and the soil dries instantly. In the resting phase, when the flower should be dry, you can spray the soil lightly every 20 days to prevent the earth from completely drying out.

Lighting

Caring for amaryllis in indoor conditions to a greater extent consists in providing the plant with regular daily illumination of at least 16 hours. These flowers always reach for the sun, but since their growing season falls on the coldest periods, it is often the lack of natural sunlight that prevents the development of flower stalks.

Amaryllis feels comfortable on the south and south-east windows.

Watering

As soon as a flower in the resting phase appears a flower arrow measuring 5-10 cm - this means that the dormant period is over, and the plant can be watered more often and more abundantly. To avoid overfilling, it is better to apply soft moisturizing through a pallet.

If watering in the usual way - you should always drain excess water, otherwise stagnation of moisture will lead to rotting of the roots.

Pot

Flower containers for this plant should be massive, stable, elongated, with a length of at least 20 cm. Usually, amaryllis grows an impressive root system, so shallow wide pots simply will not allow the leaves and then the flower stalk to fully develop.

When transplanted into a more spacious container, its diameter should increase by only 2-3 cm. In such "tight" conditions, amaryllis bloom much more readily.

Priming

The soil for amaryllis should include a large number of nutrient components. The best option would be a substrate of the following composition: turf, leafy, humus soil with an admixture of sand in equal parts. With an obligatory 3-cm drainage layer made of pebbles, expanded clay or brick chips.

You can also use universal ground for bulb flowers.

Fertilizer and fertilizer

Feeding is carried out during the growing season. The alternation of mineral and organic fertilizers, which are applied at a frequency of once a month, is recommended. As organics, solutions of mullein and bird droppings are used.

Mineral fertilizers should contain more phosphorus and potassium. Soil rich in nitrogen - on the contrary, can harm the plant. During the rest, feeding amaryllis is not required.

Transfer

Amaryllis transplant is carried out after flowering and withering of the flower stalk. As a rule, only the top 3 cm of soil is replaced once a year, saturating the earth with nutrients. A full flower transplant is carried out every 3-4 years. Key points for proper transplantation of amaryllis:

A few days before the procedure, the plant is watered abundantly.
When a flower is brought out of the pot, the root system is carefully examined, and rotten damaged areas are removed.
Sections or other places with defects are treated with a disinfectant solution or sprinkled with activated carbon.
Daughter sprouts are separated from the bulb. If they are not removed, then the flower will put all its strength into the development of children, in this case there will be no flowering.
In a deep pot with a drainage layer of 3 cm, prepared soil is laid on two-thirds of the flowerpot.
A 2 cm layer of sand is poured under the onion of the flower and around it the remaining amount of earth is sprinkled in such a way that only the bottom covers itself.

Such measures will help strengthen the rotten, damaged or simply "tired" bulb. The plant will soon be updated and begin active development.

Pruning

Indoor amaryllis does not need to cut dried leaves, since in the process of dying off all the useful substances from them pass into the bulb, creating a reserve for the next flowering. If half-withered leaves stand for a long time and do not die off naturally, they are carefully bent or cut off at the very base of the bulb.

Amaryllis after flowering

After flowering and wilting of inflorescences, a period of dormancy begins. Its proper preparation for this condition will extend the life of the flower for a longer time. First of all, the peduncle is carefully cut from the base of the bulb. Watering is gradually reduced, since a non-flowering plant absorbs much less moisture.

The plant is placed in a cool, shaded place and for 2-3 months it is not disturbed either by watering (a rare spraying of the top soil layer is enough), or by top dressing. As soon as a new sprout or flower arrow begins to break through, this is a sign of the end of the resting phase of the flower. The plant is placed in a warmer and brighter room, transferred to a slightly larger pot.

Growing amaryllis from seeds

This method of breeding imposes its characteristics on the grown amaryllis:

- varietal qualities of the flower are not preserved;

- the bulb does not age longer;

- the plant produces flowers only after 5-6 years.

For this type of propagation, seeds freshly picked from flower boxes are used. Their germination after collection lasts up to 5 weeks, drying is also not recommended, otherwise the percentage of successfully germinated seeds is lost.

Sown in moist nutrient soil, consisting of sod and humus soil (one part) in combination with a mixture of sheet soil and sand (2 parts each). Seeds are sprinkled only slightly - with a layer of no more than 5 mm. Favorable temperature - 23-25 degrees. After 8 weeks, the first shoots can be expected.

When two leaves appear in the seedling, it is transplanted into a 100 ml pot.

Bulb propagation of amaryllis

A simpler method is the propagation of a flower by daughter bulbs. They are carefully separated from the mother plant during transplantation and planted in the soil of the same composition as the adult plant. Young amaryllis develop quite actively and in two years reach the level of the maternal bulb. Bloom in the second or third year after planting.

Why does not bloom

Amaryllis is a rather rare plant in indoor floriculture and most often among lovers there is its more compliant fellow - hippeastrum. But still, if you have this rare specimen of a flower that refuses to bloom, there may be the following reasons:

too spacious a pot in which a flower actively grows children, and there are already not enough resources for flowering;
lack of essential nutrients;
lack of lighting during the growing season;
lack of a phase of rest;
the presence of fungal diseases or parasites.

Diseases and Pests

Common diseases and problems of growing a plant:

Amaryllis leaves wither and fade due to the process of decay;
Blackening of flowers caused by high humidity in the room in combination with low temperatures;
Slowly growing and falling leaves as a result of defeat by an amaryllis mealybug;
White spots on leaves and stems - A sign of the appearance of such a parasite as a mealy worm;
Rotting bulbs occurs after infection with a daffodil fly or an onion tick;
Brown spots on leaves causes a pest - false shields;
Leaves turn yellow Amaryllis occurs with excessive soil moisture, as well as with the appearance of aphids.

Other pests are thrips, mealy bugs.

Types of Amaryllis home with photos and names

Amaryllis belladonna, the second name is beautiful amaryllis (Amaryllis belladonna).

Until recently, it was defined as the only type of amaryllis. This variety is characterized by bulbs with a diameter of 8-10 cm and leafless peduncles 60-70 cm in size. The plant has six-petalled inflorescences of cream, pink and lilac tones with a pleasant aroma.

Popular varieties of amaryllis:

"Durban" - is distinguished by bell-shaped flowers with a white center at the base;